Scandinavian Dream

As our small ship cruised through the fjord toward Norway’s iconic Pulpit Rock, clouds stretched like a canvas across the towering cliffs. Fat drops of rain fell, spattering across the deck … and me. The weather, which was typical for late summer, did nothing to dampen the wonder I felt at the majesty of my surroundings. This long, narrow inlet formed during successive ice ages, when glaciers crept out and seas rushed in.

Many of Norway’s fjords are deep enough to handle large cruise ships. Our small-by-comparison boat sailed past squat lighthouses, villages tucked into the crevices of rocks and even goats perched on a steep hillside. On the return leg, we stopped to sip a glass from a waterfall fabled to restore youth.

I was midway through Insight Vacations’ Country Roads of Southern Scandinavia 12-day itinerary, and the cruise down the famous fjords was an excursion I’d been looking forward to the entire time.

For 40 years, Insight Vacations has immersed visitors in unique experiences and connected them to culture in authentic ways. Guests enjoy 40-seat luxury motorcoaches with double-the-standard legroom and free Wi-Fi along most routes. These comforts are especially nice on this trip because it is basically Scandinavia 101 and covers a lot of territory—which means some long driving days. Many guests slept on the long drives, but there was too much to look at outside the window for me to nod off.

Most of the trip is spent in Norway, a small nation whose people are defined by a quirky sense of humor and a cheerful defiance of convention. It’s a fierce land in winter, which bred a fierce tribe—the Vikings. Norway gained independence from Denmark in 1814 and for more than a hundred years, was Scandinavia’s poor relation. Its residents lived a hard-scrabble existence—until the discovery of oil in the North Sea in 1963. Now, Norway is one of Europe’s most prosperous countries.

That prosperity was evident throughout the trip, with clean streets, residents filling local shops and restaurants, beautifully manicured parks—and tunnels. Norwegians are “tunnel-philes.” There are more than 1,000 covering approximately 500 total miles. Some even have roundabouts, and the longest is a noteworthy 15.2 miles. The government is currently building the Stad Ship Tunnel, the world’s longest for seafaring vessels, which will allow cruise liners, freighters and smaller vessels to avoid the treacherous Stadhavet Sea.

We began our journey in Oslo, Norway’s capital, a cosmopolitan city with ancient roots. It was a busy day, with strolls through the town center and time at the Open Air Museum (Norsk Folkemuseum). This popular living-history park with its intricate wooden structures includes a stave church. Built between 1157 and 1216, the stacked wooden structure with its gingerbread trim, runic inscriptions and carvings of dragons looming off its portals looks like it came out of a fairy tale. Vikings used their shipbuilding prowess to construct these elaborate churches, relying on corner posts (called staves) as a framework for timber wall planks that stand on sills.

On the way out of Oslo, we stopped at the Viking Ship Museum, where ancient vessels from 1066 B.C. to A.D. 800 are displayed. These include the Oseberg—heavily carved with animal motifs and featuring a curled prow—which took 21 years to restore. It’s incredible that such ferocious explorers and warriors could create such an elegant ship.

Then it was time to travel up the Hardanger Plateau, following the shore of Hardangerfjord. Our destination was Bergen, a beautiful town surrounded by mountains facing the Byfjorden fjord. Sailboats and ships bobbed in the clear waters, reflecting the earthy-colored commercial buildings of Bryggen (The Wharf), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We capped the evening dining in an old stock exchange building where reindeer soup was on the menu.

The next morning, I was excited about journeying on the Flåm Railway, a one-hour scenic trip along the Flåmsdalen valley, peppered with small farmsteads, thick forests and mountains that look like witch hats. The world’s steepest standard-gauge train, it stopped at the Kjosfossen waterfall, a powerful force of nature. Once we arrived in Flåm, I had time to wander the little village with its unique craft shops and street food.

The following day, we experienced a different transportation mode—ferries. Two of them as we motored our way to Stavanger. This was one of my favorite cities, with its charming old town and bright, colorful buildings. Stavanger is also the gateway for the fjord cruise—the entire journey’s true highlight.

While much of the time was spent on larger motorways, we did venture onto small country roads that showcase pastoral farmlands and the rocky shore. We even stopped at the village of Kvinesdal for cream cake on our way to Kristiansand, a resort city. Then it was time to say goodbye to Norway via another ferry, this one to Denmark.

Denmark’s history is in many ways child-oriented because it’s home to LEGO bricks and Hans Christian Andersen. We ventured into Aarhus, the country’s second-largest city, to tour Den Gamle By, another living-history museum. Aarhus also features a beautiful cathedral and a Latin Quarter that was once docklands but now houses modern apartment blocks. From there, we drove to Odense to see the Andersen home and museum. I purchased books for my grandchildren, which included some of Andersen’s iconic fairy tales, including The Ugly Duckling and The Little Mermaid.

The last large city we visited was Copenhagen, where I viewed its stunning panorama from the water on a one-hour canal-boat tour. A monarchy for 1,000 years, Denmark is the world’s oldest kingdom. Founded in 1167, it also boasts the world’s oldest flag. I wandered down Copenhagen’s iconic Nyhavn, the colorful street along the waterfront where throngs of people gather to enjoy the views.

Our final driving excursion headed to the picture-postcard-perfect fishing village of Dragor, a quintessential Danish town. With time on my own, I wandered the entire village, shopping for gifts and watching families on holiday.

It’s always hard to say goodbye, but it was made easier by a visit to Carlsberg Brewery, then Tivoli Gardens. An historical amusement park, Tivoli is often called The Happiest Place on Earth. Couples strolled beneath hanging lights and dined under the stars. Parents raced to keep up with their children, who were delighted by the rides and the fairy-tale atmosphere. It was a magical farewell to a mystical region of the world.

For more information about Insight Vacations’ Country Roads of Southern Scandinavia journey, or other itineraries, go to insightvacations.com. To book your getaway and use your AAA member benefits, visit your AAA Travel agent or AAA.com/travel.