Brilliant Britain

As we drove 1,200 miles along the byways and back roads of Great Britain, my husband, Jeff, and I listened to James Herriot’s books on CD. This beloved series about a country vet working in the Yorkshire Dales entertained us as the countryside flashed by, as we hugged the rugged Welsh coastline and as I reminded Jeff at each roundabout, “Look right, drive left.” Those miles were never tedious because we were amazed by the history and beauty of the United Kingdom’s fabled land.

As a writer, I’ve always felt drawn to England because of its literary history: Austen, Bronte, Dickens, Shakespeare, Herriot … the list could go on and on. Reading those volumes made me want to visit the sites described so eloquently in prose. I reread some of those favorites before we landed in London, which is the perfect place to start a Great Britain tour. England’s capital, London is also the heart of the monarchy, of course, with famous haunts such as Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey and the Tower of London. One of my favorite sites is the reconstructed Shakespeare’s Globe open-air theater, where players act out the Bard’s works.

Three hours west of London, the port town of Bristol was home to history’s most notorious pirate—Edward Teach, aka Blackbeard. Here we learned the unknown history of buccaneers on Pirate Pete’s Pirate Walks. Nowadays, Bristol is a hip college town with a neighborhood along the wharf sporting reclaimed shipping containers turned into restaurants and shops.

Farther north, Liverpool is also experiencing rejuvenation. Most well-known as the launching point for the British Invasion, the Beatles’ hometown was once a gray industrial center. Now it bustles with tourists who flock to The Beatles Story museum, wander Albert Dock and ride the towering Ferris wheel.

This trip allowed me to finally see the city of Bath, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where many of Austen’s heroines experienced their turning points. Named for a 2,000-year-old Roman thermal spring, Bath is also home to the Royal Crescent, a curving row of 30 terraced Georgian houses. After visiting the historical baths, fans should head to the Jane Austen Centre, which celebrates the famed author.

Once out of larger cities, roads become meandering lanes that are often bracketed by stone walls or dense brush. But these rural regions are worth the drive. We cruised past patchwork fields, where contented cows and placid sheep grazed. The Lake District boasts Grasmere, which was home to poet William Wordsworth, who wrote it was, “The loveliest place man has ever found.” Nearby Bowness-on-Windermere is where Beatrix Potter penned her children’s classics, and it’s a short drive from the aptly named village of Ambleside.

Another pastoral region, the Cotswolds is filled with cottages made of local amber-colored stone. We stayed at Broadway’s Lygon Arms hotel, which was once a Tudor coaching inn. It has been transformed into a holistic guest experience with intimate gathering spaces, a lovely courtyard and delicious dining. Oliver Cromwell overnighted here before the Battle of Worchester in 1651, and it’s also where Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor rendezvoused in secret.

Herriot’s stories drew us to the Yorkshire Dales, where he toiled on bucolic farms set amid hay meadows and heather moorlands dissected by drystone walls. Many of the small villages that dot the region are built from local limestone. Our favorite was Thirsk, where Herriot (aka James Alfred Wight) lived, worked and wrote. His tomes are filled with memorable characters and wonderful descriptions of the land he loved. His former home and practice is now a museum.

When most Americans think of Wales, what probably comes to mind is the title conferred upon the heir apparent to the British throne—the Prince of Wales. And while there hasn’t been a native Welsh prince since the 15th century, Wales was once a power player. This is seen in its 640 castles, more per square mile than any country in Europe.

Wales features dramatic scenery, with more than 870 miles of craggy coastline, rolling mountains and verdant fields. Cardiff is the capital, and a restored Neo-Gothic castle overlooks the city. The castle apartments are elaborately decorated with frescoes and woodcarvings. Nearby, visitors can grab a bite at the Cardiff Market, where they’ll find everything from Welsh Cakes, a soft version of a scone crossed with shortbread, to walking sticks.

From Cardiff, we drove to Swansea, a lovely seaside village with a crumbling castle and windswept sea walk. Then it was north to Aberystwyth, a resort town with a sandy swath of beach and castle ruins. Aberystwyth is south of Snowdonia National Park, where some of Wales’ most dramatic scenery is found. Featuring 86 peaks, 100 lakes and an historical railway that climbs to Snowdon’s summit, it’s a worthwhile stop along the route north toward Scotland.

Scotland is the land of kilts, clans and bagpipes. Studded with castles and ancient structures, it fought a fierce battle for independence then recently voted to remain part of the U.K. Edinburgh, the capital, is a charming city with a castle perched on a hill. The HMY Britannia, Queen Elizabeth’s yacht, is permanently docked just outside Old Town. Visitors can tour the ship with its original furnishings then dine in the Royal Deck Tea Room.

Edinburgh is the perfect launching point to visit the Highlands. Ancient settlers left behind stone circles, round prehistoric homes and cairns (stone mounds), some of which are estimated to be more than 5,000 years old. Dotted with lochs (lakes) and shadowed by green-surfaced mountains, the Highlands were popularized by Queen Victoria when Prince Albert purchased Balmoral Castle as a gift. At the royal estate, guests can rent cabins and play a round of golf.

By the time we returned to London for our flight home, we were two hours shy of finishing our audio books. I would have gladly traveled another 1,200 miles, not just to reach the final chapter but also to see more of Great Britain’s greatest sites.

While traveling on our own meant we set our own pace, it also meant we had to deal with our own travel snafus. For those who’d prefer not to plan their trip or navigate on the other side of the road, AAA travel partner Trafalgar offers a 14-day Best of Britain tour. In business since 1947, Trafalgar provides luxury motorcoaches and VIP access to tourist sites. Hotels are rated three or four stars, and meals are planned to highlight regional specialties. The itinerary goes to many of the sites we visited and also includes Exeter, Plymouth, Glastonbury, Ludlow and Chester. To contact Trafalgar on this or any other itinerary, visit trafalgar.com, but book with AAA to use member benefits.

For more information on the United Kingdom, go to visitbritain.com. For trip-planning assistance, visit your local AAA Travel agent or AAA.com/travel.

Shelly Steig is a freelance writer based in Parker, Colo.